Archive for the 'Slovakia' Category

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Day 3: Thursday, Andrejcova – Pohorela – Studna na Murani – Nizna Klakova

What wakes me up is when I realize that I can hear voices right behind the wooden wall. When a thought that it could possibly be forest guard comes to my mind I don’t feel very happy. But when the two guys keep on talking in a car parked less than 3 meters from me I give up and start packing and eating some breakfast. Luckily the two lumber jacks (because that’s what the guys after all have been) left for work before I was ready to leave. It takes a while to make my feet go properly and get into a proper tempo.

As it soon turns out the cottage where I was supposed to stay for the night is still pretty far and through not very easy terrain (freshly cut forest with some trees still lying around). I was damn happy that I stopped down there and didn’t try to go any further – there was no place to sleep till the cottage which was another 1.5 hr away. The cottage is really nice, it’s a shelter for tourists with wooden benches and a fire place where anybody can sleep over for free. I met there a German guy who also did a few days of hike and got into talk with him. It cost me some half an hour but was fun. I have finally told my mom that I am going alone, she slightly freaks out.

I get down the hill to the village of Pohorela and from that I am taking the “good old” asphalt road to Pohorelska Masa (famous in AIESEC Slovakia for a couple of crazy summer camping trips, now the camp is empty and desolate). Now there are two roads to where I am heading, I pick the one that according to map is a little bit shorter.. but it also means more walking the road compared to a path in forest, dang. Walking up the hill taking a broken down road I am again close to giving up – fed up with this all :P . I finally get up to Sedlo Setarova (sedlo = saddle, the gap between two hills is called like this) and from there after 40 min (and not the official 25 minutes) I finally get to Studna na Murani (the Well on Muran). I am doing pretty bad – feeling really tired and stuff and so I just decide to go to Nizna Klakova and sleep over there in a tourists shelter.

The way there feels like its never going to finish, instead of official 1h 20m it takes me 2hrs! I dont get it how could I go so slow but when I finally get there and take of my shoes I feel like I wont be able to walk a few meters. The shelter is smaller than on Andrejcova but nice. There are 3 czechs over there (they stay here during nights and go for trips to the hills around during the day, 3 days they have spent here like that).

On the same meadow there is a fence with the famous horses from Muran. The are big, brown and beautiful. After sunset in only sandals I decide to go for water (sign says that 3 minutes away), after some difficulties I find the spring and fill in my bottles. Problem comes on the way when I loose the path and with minimal light I try to get through the bushes and trees towards the brighter spots between trees – the edge of the meadow, when I finally little scratched get on the meadow I found out that I am some 50 m away from the path. I think that was my punishment for complaining about getting lost :) I ate some canned meat, watched the stars and go to sleep. The czech guys have decided to sleep under the stars, in middle of the night I am woken up with loud screams of “get lost! hey! bastard!” and a minute later one of the guys comes in with this explanation: “a fox was pulling on my sleeping bag, bastard!”. In morning we find in the book where the visitors write their notes on their stay that the fox is a common visitor and got used to being fed by the tourists, looks like he was trying to remind us that he didnt get any leftovers today :)

Day 2: Wednesday – Cottage under Rysy – Strba – Liptovska Teplicka – under Andrejcova

The breakfast at the cottage starts at 6.30 am and we slept at the floor of the dining room so we were awake already as early as 6 am. The breakfast (included in price) was really rich, with all kinds of food – we ate properly for first time in 24 hours, the day before we didn’t feel like eating. We left the cottage at around 8 am. As soon as we started to walk it was clear that Ivos knee is not ok, the path was mostly about jumping down from one rock to another one and sometimes climbing using chains and already the first part that was supposed to take one hour took us two.

Before getting to Strbske Pleso (the Mountain lake of Strba) it was obvious he cant continue this way and we decided that he will end there and I will go alone. That also meant that I was carrying all my stuff, food that was originally meant for two and now even the stupid tent, pretty nice load. After a goodbye beer (with little dizzy head) I started to half-walk-half-jog down the hill to Tatranska Strba.

My feet were already starting to hurt and it took me a while to warm up into a steady speed. From there started the first painful asphalt road leg – 17 km of hard surface. The village of Liptovska Teplicka was not marked correctly on my map – it took an hour longer than it said. The top frustration came when I saw a sign and came to it expecting to tell me I already came to the village and instead of that it informed me that I have to walk another hour. The marking in the village (when I finally get there) is poor and nobody can give me proper advise on the direction so I loose some time also there. If I didn’t have the maps I would be screwed.

When I finally get to the crossroad from where I am supposed to go uphill its nearly 7 pm and the sun starts to set already. I start to go as fast I my tired body only can up the hill, but more and more frequently the idea comes back that I should give up the goal of getting to the peak (where there is a tourist sleeping hut) and spend the night somewhere earlier. I wanted to prove myself that I can do it, so I continued. At 7.55 pm I nearly cant see the road because of the darkness and come to a wooden hut – I think an empty hay storage. I give up and decide to sleep there. I finally eat something proper again – a can of beans and I can tell You that its truth that hunger is the best cook – it tasted amazingly good! At around 8 pm in nearly complete darkness I notice a guy riding bike down the hill without any light – mega dumb! I lay down and try to sleep I lay down and try to sleep I lay down and try to sleep but am waking up the whole night because of wind and strange noises, I don’t really feel safe there.

Day 1: Tuesday, Lysa Polana – Cottage under Rysy

At 9 am we arrived by bus to Lysa Polana, which is a border crossing with Poland.

After the first hour of hiking (warming up) we arrived to the Miskiewicz waterfalls. Here we found out that the direct road to Morskie Oko (Sea Eye) is closed and we will have to go through 5 Polskych Stawov (5 Polish Lakes).

The views on the path and at the lakes were amazing but we have lost more than three hours when compared to planned route. We have taken a rest at the Cottage at the 5 lakes and also at Morskie Oko.

From this cottage the climbing to the peak of Rysy was hell. Already on the first one hour part between the lake Morskie Oko and Czarny Staw (Black Lake) made sweat trickle down our faces, but the around 45 degrees ascent that took another three hours killed us both.

We have even few times went off the path, gradually I was falling behind and honestly the last few hundred meters I was on the edge of exhaustion. I felt like I have no more strength to continue, actually missing more the psychical strength than the physical. First was a feeling I don’t want to go any further and later I felt depleted, my lips felt like tiny pins were irritating them.

After we got over the peak of Rysy we just limped to the cottage. It was already after sunset and going any further would be stupid (but we met a family of father and two kids who decided to continue down hill and risk getting to the next cottage – one and half hour away – while there were still some light left). The price was 500 sk per night/person, damn a lot, but we had no other choice. People like us who have no other choice… well have no other choice than to pay. They set the price high to scare away those who would come and just hang at the cottage for few days – the cottage is always crowded.

So we finished up sleeping there with another like 20 people (full capacity with few of us sleeping on the floor). We have been told that that day there was some guy who came to the cottage all the way from Morskie Oko because he found a lost jacket and came to ask if it doesn’t belong to any of the guests – crazy! There was also one guy, who passed us during the climb, in shorts and with only a plastic bag in his hand – weird. Ivos knee started to hurt, was not that bad at night, I also have not feeling too much fit.

Intro to the trip across Slovakia

I got this idea a long ago – to walk Slovakia across. From East (Dukla) to West (Devin), it’s a proper route that was used also during WW2 and that’s also why is called the Partisans route. It takes around 26 days to make it…

But with my time fund I did not allow it. So I told myself that if West to East is not possible, why not North to South?

I have sit down to it one day and did a proper research, two webpages were the core – www.turistickamapa.sk (interactive map of all tourist paths in Slovakia) and www.hiking.sk (has a Hike Planner that tells You all needed info about the route – time needed, ascend, descend, distance, stops). I planned a complete route from the Polish/Slovak to Slovak/Hungarian border. When I put the route together the final distance was more than 180 kms, 53 hours of continuous fast walk, and more than 6000 m of ascend and 6000 m of descend…

But I knew that my mum would have big issues with allowing me to go alone and also its rather risky to go for such trip without any company. So I have sent a mail to 4 friends about whom I thought that they could have the motivation and also condition to go for the trip. The only one who responded positively was Ivo Melay, my exMCP from Slovakia, who just came back from a pilgrimage to Compostella – 900 kms in 41 days across Spain.

We put together the plan and in early morning of Tuesday 2nd of September got on a train and bus to the Polish border. We took a tent, (useless amount of) food, warm clothes for the mountain part but also shorts for the summer heat of Southern lowlands, sleeping bags and some basic equipment. From todays point of view we have stupidly overpacked… but that topic will get more attention later :)

a little hike that starts something big :)

So today I went for a hike up the hills above my town.

Yes, it was nice and it felt good to be out again, but the main point is that I am fine and fresh after it… why? After my hike in Tatras to Krivan my knee was bitching about me going fast and far and I had some slight pains in it. But today after my return I can see that I am ready.

Ready for what? Walking across Slovakia :D

Continue reading ‘a little hike that starts something big :)

my second home – Banska Bystrica

So I got a kick of nostalgia right in my guts the last few days…

Yeah, I know that I am home in Vrutky/Martin, the twin towns where I was born and was raised, but honestly for the last 7 years it was just a stop over – the place to go to get clean clothes, have some home cooked food and maybe spend holidays. In Banska Bystrica (BB) I have spent 5 years of my uni studies and it was my base for the countless conferences of AIESEC… but most of all its the town where I truly lived, loved, drunk, enjoyed myself, was doing sightseeing for I dont know how many foreigners, lived at 5 different places each in different part of town, took on the challenge of AIESEC leadership and realized I am more-less good in it, was enjoying the old buildings with their small details and the hills and nature right behind the houses…

So it should not be surprising that I experienced that a memory pops out on every second corner…

Continue reading ‘my second home – Banska Bystrica’